Demna Summons Gucci's '90s Sensuality
The narrative hidden in the FW26 collection — from the Manhattan sneaker to the Bamboo bag.
Gucci Catches Its Breath, Demna Steps Up
After hitting its explosive revenue peak in 2022, Gucci has been moving through a stabilization phase — catching its breath as it prepares the brand's next chapter. Q1 2026 results reflected the natural rhythm of a portfolio in restructuring, while at the same time lighting up positive growth signals in North America, its core market, raising expectations of a rebound.
Through the preceding Sabato De Sarno era, the Kering group confirmed what the market actually expects from Gucci: not 'quiet luxury,' but the brand's signature explosive energy. So in July 2025, Kering chose Demna — the figure best equipped to revive the 'loud luxury' in the brand's DNA with maximum sensibility — and injected new vitality into the house.
Summoning '90s Tom Ford
Demna has set aside the conceptual provocations of his Balenciaga years. The weapon he chose instead: the seductive 'sensuality' of the '90s Tom Ford era. Tight t-shirts, slick laminated trousers, mini blazers. Stripped of the Alessandro Michele era's maximalism, the vision is leaner and bolder.
Demna's new Gucci doesn't strain to invent anything. It focuses on proving — through modern, real-world dressing — why the heritage the house has built over the past century, from the GG monogram to the Bamboo and Jackie bags, is the very essence of Gucciness.
The Context Behind the Runway
The FW26 "Primavera" show, held in Milan this past February, was a symbolic stage that made the house's direction unmistakable. The intriguing contexts surrounding the show offer good hints for reading the brand's tomorrow.
Predecessor Meets Successor
Alessandro Michele (now at Valentino) sat front row, cheering on Demna's first runway as it opened the house's new chapter.
Clever Casting
Gen Z icons and '90s supermodels like Kate Moss walked side by side, widening the brand's target spectrum.
The Return of Va-va-voom
Kate Moss closed the show in a black gown revealing a 10-carat diamond GG thong — a flawless resurrection of the Tom Ford era's daring sexiness.
Where Scarcity Meets Commerciality
Demna's intuitive design becomes a weapon buyers can propose to customers with far greater ease. Three key items to watch right now:
- The Manhattan Sneaker
A hybrid of basketball shoe and slip-on. The first shoe Demna designed at Gucci — and the most important commercial key item of the FW26 season. - The Bamboo 1947 Renewal
The archive, refined for the present with a slimmer volume and pieced-leather handle. - The Jackie 1961 Update
An entry lineup with approachable pricing, including mini sizes.
