From Subculture to Global Fashion: Martine Rose

On October 15, the FW26 collaboration collection from Supreme and Martine Rose will be released. Combining sports heritage, London subculture, and New York streetwear, the collection shows the common ground between two brands with different cultural backgrounds. Along with the collaboration's key items, we look at the brand and design direction of Martine Rose, who started out in London's underground culture and has built a design territory of her own.

Where Sports Heritage Meets Streetwear

The collection's centerpiece is the Jeff Hamilton Shearling Coat. It reinterprets the heritage of Jeff Hamilton, known for its sports championship jackets, through the design language of Supreme and Martine Rose.

The lineup includes a wide range of apparel, such as a patchwork leather jacket, denim pants, a Cordura® hooded jacket, a suede cardigan, and a track set. Accessories include logo caps and beanies, a shearling mini duffel bag, and a custom JBL speaker, alongside a collaboration-exclusive Nike Dunk Low.

The collection will be released from October 15, primarily through Supreme's official online store and flagship stores.

Martine Rose: Design Rooted in London Subculture

Martine Rose is a British-Jamaican fashion designer from Croydon, England, who founded her eponymous label in London in 2007. Drawing inspiration from London subcultures such as rave, reggae, punk, and 1990s British streetwear, she has developed designs that combine exaggerated proportions, deconstructed tailoring, and a blend of streetwear and high fashion.

The brand's identity also shows in how it presents its collections. Using spaces outside traditional fashion show venues, such as primary schools, community centers, and street markets, she has connected London's everyday life and local culture to the context of her designs. In 2023, she won British Menswear Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards, broadening her standing in the industry.

Collaborations are also a major area of the brand's activity. She has worked on projects with brands spanning sports, heritage, and contemporary fashion, including Nike, Clarks, Tommy Hilfiger, Napapijri, and Timberland. At Clarks in particular, she took part as guest creative director, reinterpreting the brand's traditional shoe designs from a fresh perspective.

FW26: Renaissance Splendor and '90s Clubwear

Martine Rose's FW26 menswear collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week in January 2026, drew inspiration from figures known for bold self-expression, including Henry VIII, James Brown, and British boxer Prince Naseem. It's defined by its combination of Renaissance-era splendor and 1990s clubwear.

Key items included a jacket with corset stitching, a satin bomber with a built-in hood, and leather trousers with front lacing details. Puff sleeves evoking the Tudor-era doublet were applied to sports jackets and MA-1 bombers, while shirts combining fur details and lingerie elements added variation to the collection.

Intersecting historical dress, club culture, and everyday sportswear, this season reveals both refined craftsmanship and humor. It shows Martine Rose's design approach of twisting the proportions and details of familiar garments to create new silhouettes.

💡 EDITORIAL SMALL TALK

This collaboration between Supreme and Martine Rose is a case where sports heritage, London subculture, and New York streetwear intersect. The Jeff Hamilton shearling coat and the collaboration-exclusive Nike Dunk Low show how different brand identities can connect within a single collection.

In particular, the approach of reinterpreting existing sportswear and streetwear designs in a new cultural context is worth referencing when looking at differentiation strategies for collaboration products.