What to Watch at NYFW SS27

On September 10, Henry Zankov's debut collection for Diane von Furstenberg (DVF) opens this New York Fashion Week. And with Thom Browne's show on September 15, the six-day schedule comes to a close. In between, some 70 runway shows and presentations will be unveiled.

It's the year leading up to America's 250th anniversary, the first season in which the CFDA's "Fur-Free" policy officially takes effect, and on top of that, the schedule completely overlaps with the US Open tennis tournament. You don't need to follow every show. We've rounded up the key points worth watching from a buyer's perspective.

A New Beginning for DVF: Henry Zankov

Henry Zankov, who carved out his own position with the knitwear brand Zankov, presents his first collection as head of DVF. The key point to watch is how the new director reinterprets, in a modern way, the house's clear signature archive: the wrap dress.

It's an opportunity to see, on the New York stage, the commercial strategy luxury houses have recently adopted of putting the brand's own archive first after a change in director. It's also worth looking at the material feel and silhouette direction of the SS27 knit category as interpreted by a director with a background as a knit specialist.

The Day Before Fashion Week: American Luxury Gets an Early Start

Major brands' presentations are concentrated on September 9, the day before the official calendar opens. Ralph Lauren's standalone Spring 2027 show is joined by Coach, Cult Gaia, Libertine, and Rachel Comey, celebrating its 25th anniversary.

It's a setup in which the two pillars of American luxury, Ralph Lauren, which continues its earnings momentum, and Coach, which is completing its transformation, take the stage early, outside the calendar. The lineup unveiled on the 9th is set to serve as an "opening night" that gauges the commercial indicators of the US contemporary and luxury markets this season.

10 First-Time Brands

The 10 brands named on the official calendar for the first time this season (High Sport, Conner Ives, Magda Butrym, Sabyasachi, Benjamin Seidler, Grey's, Hikari no Yami, Max Esmail, Patrick Taylor, Zaldy) serve as a first-round screening list for selecting emerging buying targets.

Among them, a few trends stand out from a buyer's perspective.

It's worth watching how far High Sport can expand its categories beyond specific hit products, and how Magda Butrym and Conner Ives can widen the recognition they've built mainly in Europe in New York. Sabyasachi's participation is also worth attention as a case of an Indian luxury brand expanding its touchpoints with the US market.

A first entry onto the official calendar is less a signal that guarantees a brand's success and more a useful benchmark for organizing a pool of candidates to watch closely from next season onward.

Add to this the first appearances of CVFF (CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund) finalists Bad Binch TONGTONG, Jamie Haller, and Milamore, and the list for discovering emerging talent is complete.

The Fur-Free Policy Takes Effect for the First Time

Starting this season, the CFDA's fur-free policy takes effect for all brands on the official calendar. With fur banned entirely, a wide range of alternative materials are expected to appear on the runway to fill the gap left by real fur.

The key is how a new material grammar that delivers luxurious textures, such as shearling, high-quality faux fur, and heavily textured knits, is presented. Although these are SS collections, the accompanying Pre-Fall capsule pieces offer an early read on material direction for future FW27 orders.

Will Familiar American Fashion Codes Return?

2026 marks the 250th anniversary of the US Declaration of Independence. The fashion world has already seen a series of projects commemorating it. In "United Flags of Fashion," led by the CFDA and Vogue, American designers took part by interpreting the culture and identity of their regions in their own ways.

In this atmosphere, the question "What is American fashion now?" naturally follows at this NYFW. The point to watch is how familiar elements such as preppy, collegiate style, denim, workwear, and Western are reinterpreted in ways that connect with today's consumers, rather than simply repeated as they are.

It's also interesting to compare whether different American design languages emerge, from major brands like Ralph Lauren and Coach to emerging designers.

💡 Insights for Buyers

Optimizing Your Buying Schedule
If your time on the ground is limited, you can plan your route around key dates. One approach is to look at the commercial flow of American luxury through the 9/9 "opening night" brands, Ralph Lauren and Coach, then check the direction of the SS27 knit and wrap categories at DVF's opening debut show on 9/10. After that, it can also be efficient to prioritize the first-time emerging brands and the 9/15 Thom Browne closing show.

Making the Most of Timing for Ordering from Emerging Brands
The 10 brands newly added to the official calendar and the CVFF finalists are a useful list to reference when considering new brands. Since touchpoints between brands and buyers can become more active right after the runway, it's a good idea to research brands of interest in advance and quickly check showroom schedules and wholesale terms.

Checking Materials for FW27 Orders
With the CFDA's Fur-Free policy taking effect this season, a variety of materials that can replace fur, such as shearling, faux fur, and texture-driven knits, are likely to draw attention. We recommend also looking at the Pre-Fall products unveiled alongside to get an early read on material trends worth referencing for future FW27 merchandise planning and orders.